Thieves' Market in Lisbon and the Woman in Pink Scarf

Gloomy Saturday, June 2024 – day in Alfama (Lisbon, Portugal)

We took the Azul metro line (blue line) towards Santa Apolónia. It’s only five stations from Marquês de Pombal. The Woman in the Pink Scarf sat across from me. She wrapped her head in a scarf decorated with golden and blue sardines swimming in pink waters. The vibrant flowers on her blouse complemented the pastel pink shade of her loose trousers. She answered a call with a smile, her golden watch glinting on her wrist.

That morning, we were heading to the flea market at Mercado de Santa Clara, often called the Thieves’ Market (Lisbon’s oldest flea market, open every Tuesday and Saturday from early morning to early afternoon, offering a good mix of treasures and curiosities).

As we arrived, the air was filled with the scents of aromatic incense and the rich aroma of fresh leather from shops selling bags and belts. We walked among the tents and booths set up in the shadow of National Pantheon, which were still covered with foil to protect the goods from the early morning drizzle. Purple petals from jacaranda trees stuck to our shoes. Teenage girls browsed through jewellery with marine motifs, bald men sifted through vintage posters, and I treated myself to a beautiful scarf, inspired by my companion.

📷Photo tip: enter Botto Machado Garden to enjoy the view of the market from above.

The Woman in the Pink Scarf never shared what she was up to. In fact, we never exchanged a single word since we met. Yet, for those few hours, we shared our journeys in silence until she disappeared into the labyrinth of azulejos and ceramics stands…