Literary Lisbon – book shopping with a map
“Better to go barefoot than without books”
You’ve probably heard of Shakespeare and Company in Paris or the stunning Livraria Lello in Porto, but have you been to any of the bookstores in Lisbon? According to the World Cities Culture Forum, Lisbon has 35.97 bookshops per 100 000 people, which makes it the most bookish city in the world. It’s home to the oldest, the smallest, and one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world. And no, these aren’t all the same place.
Let’s explore some of Lisbon’s literary gems!
There are many more bookstores in Lisbon. This post features only places that I have already visited.
Lisbon Book Fare – Feira do Livro de Lisboa
Every year, the Lisbon Book Fair transforms Eduardo VII Park into a festival of books. This outdoor event, with its 350 booths stretching along the park’s pathways, brings together 960 publishing brands, authors, and readers of all kinds. It’s more than just a place to buy books—there are concerts, autograph sessions, and cultural events, making it a true celebration of literature. Of course, no festival is complete without food and drinks, and here, you can browse for books while enjoying a snack.
The fair stays open late into the evening, so you can wander through the stalls even after dark, soaking in the lively yet cozy atmosphere. Whether it’s a sunny afternoon or a rainy day, the event draws close to one million visitors each year, proving just how much Lisbon values its literary culture. Book prices in Portugal tend to be on the higher side compared to other European countries like Germany, but that doesn’t stop people from coming. And be prepared—the park is steep, so exploring the fair is also a bit of a workout. But that’s part of the charm: an open-air book festival in one of Lisbon’s most iconic green spaces.
Ler Devagar (reading slowly) in LX Factory
Located in a former printing press building within LX Factory—a hipster paradise in the Alcântara district, just beneath the 25 de Abril Bridge—Ler Devagar is one of Lisbon’s most fascinating bookstores. In 2013, the magazine Flavorwire named it one of the 20 most beautiful bookstores in the world.
What makes it so special?
Ler Devagar is more than just a bookstore. While its towering shelves hold around 50,000 new and second-hand books, the space also houses a music shop, a restaurant, and rotating exhibitions. One of its most iconic features is the flying bicycle suspended in midair. Is it one of Leonardo da Vinci’s flying machines? No – it’s the work of another Italian artist, Pietro Prosperi, whose kinetic sculptures are permanently displayed in the store.
LX Factory is a lively and vibrant place, with music playing in nearly every shop – so don’t expect the quiet atmosphere of Bertrand. However, it’s a fantastic spot to grab lunch or pick up a unique souvenir to take home.
Livraria Bertrand in Chiado
Lisbon’s oldest bookstore, founded in 1732, is filled with history and charm. Its facade is covered in traditional azulejos, while inside, elegant wooden bookshelves and arched ceilings add to its old-fashioned atmosphere.
Since it’s a well-known spot, the store can be loud and crowded with tourists, though there are moments of quiet when you can browse in peace. One rainy Sunday morning, I had the store almost to myself – except for a few grumpy sellers. The evening before, I felt like I was just being swept along by impatient tourists. Pessoa, Saramago… – the selection includes books mostly in Portuguese but also in English and Spanish, covering everything from Portugal history and poetry to travel guides and new releases.
At the back, there’s a small café, conveniently tucked away so it doesn’t disturb shoppers. You can also buy postcards, bookmarks and magazines, and you can even get a special bookstore stamp – available in English or Portuguese – but only in the products bought in that store.
Nowadays, Bertrand Bookstores is the biggest bookstore chain in Portugal.
Livraria Sá da Costa
Just a few steps from Bertrand, filled with antiques and curiosities, this bookstore has been around for over 100 years.
The first time I visited, I found it a bit intimidating. Everything looked old and valuable, with prices that felt out of reach. But on my most recent visit, it seemed to have a more welcoming atmosphere. At the entrance, fabric tote bags hung by the door, and the English book section had either expanded or was simply better displayed than a year before.
Near the entrance, I found a fascinating display of old maps, pocket calendars, and ex-libris torn from vintage books, priced at 5 euros each. There were also wooden boxes filled with treasures, such as stamps and old tram tickets from cities across Portugal.
Livraria da Travessa
This bookstore is outside the city center, in the Príncipe Real neighborhood. It’s the first international location of a bookstore chain from Brazil. However, it doesn’t have the typical chain store vibe. Instead, you’ll find black shelves filled with books in a welcoming, organized chaos, where colorful and beautiful covers make it a joy to browse and read. The calm atmosphere is one of its standout features – it’s not crowded, and you won’t find people pushing you around. You can take your time, linger in front of each shelf, and really enjoy the books. Afterward, you can take your new book on a peaceful walk through the Príncipe Real Garden or relax in the nearby Botanical Garden, reading under the palm trees.
Flea Markets
It’s no surprise that most books in Lisbon are in Portuguese, which may not be ideal if you don’t speak the language. However, browsing through titles at one of the city’s flea markets can still be worthwhile – you might stumble upon rare editions in other languages, beautifully illustrated art books, or vintage copies of Portuguese classics.
For example, on Saturday, you can visit Mercado de Santa Clara, known as Feira da Ladra, where, beyond the chance to uncover treasures from random sellers, you’ll also find O Alfarrabicho and Marcelo – two small but remarkable spots specializing in second-hand books and collectibles. These hidden gems are often overlooked in lists of recommended bookstores, making them a special discovery for book lovers. Whether you’re searching for rare editions, comic books, poetry, or unique vintage finds, they are well worth a visit.
Looking for more valuable finds? Every Sunday on Rua da Anchieta in Chiado, booksellers gather for the Feira de Alfarrabistas – Lisbon’s Antique Book Fair. Alfarrabistas – what a beautiful word! In addition to books, you’ll find vintage posters and postcards. The fair stays open until dawn, offering incredible deals, with some books priced as low as €1.
Bookstores are not ordinary shops. They are portals to other worlds and times, and each visit is a unique experience. So next time you visit Lisbon, step into a bookstore and see where it takes you.
The cover image is a photo of a random poster taken during the 2024 Lisbon Book Fair – author unknown.
