Recipe for a Perfect Autumn Day in Vienna

How to make the most hearty, warming, and spiced seasonal treat and trip? Full spoon of cozy mixed with a cap of vintage and a pinch of spooky. All of it in the city of music and dreams, walking along the ‘blue Danube’, riding a horse carriage to the rhythm of Walz, and admiring golden works of Klimt.

Let me show you how to immerse yourself in the autumnal aura of Vienna. 

You will need:

• Weather – sunny, but with a maximum of 23C and a gentle wind. (Optional) A short moment of unexpected rain to listen to the water droplets hitting your pocket umbrella.
• Hat and scarf – to add a bit of dark academia vibe, plus protection from the Danube breeze and crispy air in the evening
• Sporty shoes – for the comfort of your feet on all the cobblestones
• Day ticket for public transport – you can easily walk between most of the places, but to save time, it might be worth hopping on and off the tram
• Foldable tote bag – for snacks, a book for reading in a cafe and to pack all the souvenirs you will get on the way
• Viennese classics playlist – whether just in your headset while wandering around or only while reading this post, play some Mozart and imagine dancing on Vienna’s ballroom floors. If you come to Vienna by plane, you will be welcomed by the sounds of the Magic Flute.
• A camera – to document it all

Vienna Farmers’ Markets for a Cozy Autumn Breakfast

Start the day slowly with a late breakfast at one of the farmers’ markets. I had my scrambled eggs with freshly baked bread and orange juice at Karmelitermark – a great place to equip yourself with accessories for the perfect autumn day. Grab a shopping cart and treat yourself to sunflowers, a jar of honey, and mushrooms (add the name here) for a heartwarming dinner.

Treasure Hunting at Vienna’s Flea Markets & Stationery Shops

Next stop – treasure hunting. On weekends, the flea market at Naschmarkt turns into a stage decorated with stripy tents, red velvet table cloths and crystal glassware (and a bit of colourful random trash in carton boxes). This scenography made me feel like I was part of an open-air theatre play, where all sellers sang to new clients ‘Bitte, Bitte…’, dancing around them, presenting the goods. And the audience, in chaotic motion, was queuing when intrigued and moving on when not impressed.

There is no way to navigate through such clutter, so either you come with a plan for what to buy, or you just set yourself up for a lucky moment of finding something really special. You will be able to choose from mid-century wooden furniture, hobbyist paintings and letterpress books, cameras and vintage clothes. While it might be hard to bring a new lamp home, a set of old stamps or a piece of ceramics from Gmunded may work as a memorable souvenir.

Vienna might not be the first city that springs to mind when you think about stationery shopping, but that could be about to change. Just walk the Wollzeile street and enter any store displaying botanical paper, wooden stamps and inkwells. Huggable teddy bears are a bonus.

List of shops worth checking out:

ANTIQUARIAT BÜCHER ERNST’S ALTBUCHDIENST

Dr.-Karl-Lueger-Platz 3, 1010 Wien, Austria

BOOKSTORE HERDER

Wollzeile 33, 1010 Wien, Austria

PAPETERIE HERZILEIN

Wollzeile 18, 1010 Wien, Austria

KÖNIG & EBHARDT

Wollzeile 17, 1010 Wien, Austria

HERZILEIN-WIEN: KINDERMODE

Wollzeile 17, 1010 Wien, Austria

HAMTIL & SÖHNE

Wollzeile 9, 1010 Wien, Austria

SCHATZECKE

Wollzeile 5, 1010 Wien, Austria

BUCH UND KUNST

Wollzeile 2, 1010 Wien, Austria

POPPYS

Hollandstraße 18/2, 1020 Wien, Austria

PAPERBIRD

Marc-Aurel-Straße 2b, 1010 Wien, Austria

HANNIBALs

Linke Wienzeile 12, 1060 Wien, Austria

Autumn Walk in Vienna’s Botanical Garden

Walking around Vienna is not uncommon to go through a park or a green square. And since I am always up for photographing colourful flower constellations, I couldn’t miss the stroll through the Belvedere gardens with mysterious sculptures and fountains. The Botanical Garden of the University of Vienna is right next to it. Entrance to those gardens is totally free of charge.

This can be your mindful moment of enjoying the autumn atmosphere. Sipping hot tea from a thermos on a bench will let you escape the busy streets and slow down for a moment. Look out for squirrels jumping between the trees. You can also take a tour of a humid glasshouse full of light and greenery and go home with a small pumpkin from the garden.

Curious fact: Tulips came to Europe from Turkey, but before becoming a national symbol of the Netherlands, they were first cultivated in Vienna in the emperor’s gardens.

Café Break at Hundertwasser’s Kunst Haus

I combined my break with artistic experience and went to Friedlich Cafe in Kunst Haus. This place is absolutely unique with design in the Hundertwasser style – with black and white mosaics and a wavy floor. The entire ceiling was covered with plants, reflected in the round mirrors on every wall. It felt as if you were part of a design exhibition, and the cheesecake was amazing too. Visiting the toilet was an experience in itself – don’t miss it if you want to check how the rest of the building was styled.

Discovering Hidden Bookstores in Vienna’s Old Town

Autumn wouldn’t be so special without long evenings filled with books. How to find the best bookstore in Vienna? Go to a busy area with a labyrinth of streets and relatively old buildings. Old Town would be perfect for this. Then identify some mysterious alley, ideally with a staircase. This usually increases the chances of finding a hidden gem. Follow the stairs and here it is on the left – the Shakespeare& Company Booksellers bookstore, found completely by chance.

I guess it’s a thing among booklovers to go to Shakespeare bookstores in every city they visit. I have been to one in Paris, Prague, and Berlin before. They all have their unique charm, but also one thing in common – an incredible selection of books from classics, through city guides, and hot from the press. This one had ambient warm lights, a bit of a dark mood and a mystery of the price (you always had to ask the seller). Room after room, you could browse through biographies, crime stories and even some pre-loved copies. Being in the city of music, I got myself “This is what it sounds like” by Susan Rogers and Ogi Ogas.

Evening thrill at Prater

As much as autumn is about slowing down and getting cozy, the promise of a little adventure can help keep spirits high during long, cloudy days. In Prater amusement park, you can ride on the world’s oldest Ferris wheel (from 1897) – Riesenrad. Its red wooden carriages, suspended against the blue sky, resemble seaside cottages in Sweden.

Looking for a bit more screams and shouts? The Haunted Castle could be your next destination. During the day, ornamental metal lamps, small fences, and crafted branches bring an old-world charm to the park. When the sun goes down, the party music bits get synchronised with flashing lights, and the whole place turns into a carnival scene. Nutella pancakes, cotton candy, or onion Langos will provide energy for the rest of the evening.

Folklore of the Night

Finish the day by wandering through the sleepy streets of Vienna, where Paracelsus once met a devil disguised as a spider. Be careful not to look straight into the eyes of a Basilisk – a mythical, dragon-like creature. It may turn you into stone. And I hope you are not staying at Hofburg Palace, where White Lady wanders through corridors at night…